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Everything you need to know about Diamonds
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| Starting from the basics, the quality of a diamond is determined by four factors commonly
known as the "4 Cs", Carat, Clarity, Color, and Cut. Diamond professionals use
these four factors to describe, classify, and value diamonds.
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| Carat Weight |
"Carat Weight" is simply the weight of the diamond.
By definition, 1 carat is
exactly 200 milligrams. Since most diamonds sold in the jewelry industry weigh less than
1 carat, the carat is usually subdivided into "points." There are 100 points in
1 carat, so that a diamond weighing 3/4 carat would be a "75 point diamond."
In summary: 1 carat = 200 milligrams = 100 points
The diamonds proportions are the most critical factor in relation to the physical size
of the diamond. Since optically diamonds are viewed from the top a poor proportioned diamond
that is shallow or deep will appear considerably different with the same carat size
(very good cut diamonds always have a very good or excellent proportions). Also, don't
confuse the carats of a diamond with the carats of a different stone. Because different
minerals have different densities, a 1-carat diamond will have a different volume (a.k.a. size)
than, say, a 1-carat ruby
If size or carat weight is your most important attribute, (for many people it is very important)
that is perfectly acceptable, but do consider the other 3 Cs especially cut to make sure you
understand your tradeoffs.
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| Clarity |
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Clarity is a measure of the number and extent of the flaws in the diamond. Generally speaking, the fewer the flaws, the more valuable the diamond. Completely flawless diamonds are extremely rare -- only a few hundred "FL" diamonds are produced per year worldwide.
There are several grading systems used to describe clarity. By far, the most popular and the
diamond certificate most smart diamond shoppers should demand, is the Gemological Institute of
America's (G.I.A.) scale, which ranks diamonds as Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF),
very very slightly included (VVS), very slightly included (VS), slightly imperfect (SI),
and imperfect (I): Although seemingly subjective, the G.I.A. scale has specific criteria
that are used to ifferentiate between the different grades (what's the difference between
"very very" slight and "very" slight anyway!):
FL: Completely flawless
IF: Internally flawless; only external flaws are present, which can be removed by further
polishing the stone
VVS1 - VVS2: Only an expert can detect flaws with a 10X microscope.
By definition, if an expert can see a flaw from the top of the diamond, it is a VVS2.
Otherwise, if an expert can only detect flaws when viewing the bottom of the stone, then
it is a VVS1
VS1 - VS2: You can see flaws with a 10X microscope, but it takes a long time
(more than about 10 seconds)
SI1 - SI2: You can see flaws with a 10X microscope
I1 - I3: You can see flaws with the naked eye. Consider avoiding I2-I3 diamonds. There are many different
types of flaws. The best way to become acquainted with them is to look at lots of diamonds.
The more common ones are as follows:
Pinpoint: A very small white dot on the surface of the stone.
By far, the most common flaw Carbons: A very small black dot on the surface of the stone.
Less common than pinpoints Feathers: Small cracks within the stone, similar in look to broken glass.
Small internal feathers are harmless (other than lowering the clarity rating of the diamond),
but large feathers can become a problem because the crack can grow as the diamond ages
Clouds: Hazy areas within the diamond, actually made up of many small crystals that are impossible
to see individually
Crystal Growth: A small crystalline growth within the diamond. Looks like
a small diamond within the big diamond
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| Color |
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The "color" of a diamond refers to its degree of "yellowness." The ideal diamond is completely colorless, and therefore it will be the most expensive. The Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.) grades color alphabetically from D (totally colorless) to Z (yellow):
For a diamond to be considered "colorless," the G.I.A. requires that it be a D, E, or F. However, the D-Z scale is continuous, so the difference between an F and G is very small. The average color for engagement diamonds in the United States is G to H.
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| Cut |
| Cut is by far the most confusing of the 4 Cs, since it can refer to the cutting style, the shape of
the stone (round, square, heart-shaped, etc.), its symmetry and proportions, and the polish of the diamond. Each of these diamond cut characteristics are important while evaluating a diamond. |
| Shape |
As the name suggests, shape is nothing more than the intrinsic shape of the diamond. As viewed from the top, the most common shapes are:
RoundPrincessEmerald RadiantPear Marquise Heart
With the exception of the emerald cut, today's most popular shapes are brilliant cuts or hybrid
cuts (as opposed to strict step cuts). In terms of cost, the round brilliant tops the list, while the
square cuts typically cost about 10% less for a diamond of the same weight and quality. Unless you're buying a diamond as an investment, choose a shape that you like. Other than personal preference, the only characteristic that you should trade off if you choose one diamond shape over another is in brilliance and fire. Continue with the tutorial to learn more.
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The true Hearts and Arrows' pattern is extremely rare and difficult to find. The sentimental charm and mystery of my Hearts and Arrows Diamond renders emotional meaning. According to classic Roman mythology, the " Hearts" of lovers are graced by Cupid's "Arrows", that light the fire of passionate romance and engulf them in the sweet sounds of the wedding bells....
All of the hearts and arrows diamond bezel, star, upper girdle, lower girdle, and pavilion main facets must
be aligned precisely 180 degrees opposite of each other or the "H&A" pattern will be incomplete, misalign, faded or distorted in its appearance. All the facets must be exactly the same shape and size. If the cut of the diamond is even slightly asymmetric, it results in, uneven or incomplete display of the pattern.
To gain this optimum reflection and refraction of light, the cutter must be willing to sacrifice expensive rough diamond material, losing significant percentage of costly rough stone to yield a smaller diamond of superior beauty. Whereas it takes an hour to polish a standard cut, the "Ideal Cut" can take up to four days. As a result of the extremely complex cut and occurrence of a rare phenomenon, the diamonds exhibit a complete "Hearts & Arrows" pattern that cost more to produce than a regular round or even a standard ideal cut
diamond.
Not all all Ideal Cut diamonds are created equal. The Ideal Cut with the 'Hearts & Arrows' optical effect is the unique diamond in the world of ideal proportions. The term ' Hearts & Arrows' is a generic description used by the diamond industry to refer to diamonds that exhibit a crisp and complete pattern of Hearts & Arrows. They are created by the reflection of 16 lower girdle facets in the table of the stone. This phenomenon of harmony can only be seen with the aid of a special magnifying viewer.
The clinical precision facet alignment, the impeccable care cherished by the crown and the pavilion angles, the placing of the bezel, star, upper girdle, lower girdle and the pavilion facets with accuracy of the highest order emitted the Hearts & Arrows. This Hearts & arrows pattern generates light return of an average 98 % in comparison with an average Hearts & Arrows that has a light return of an average 80%.
The standard of the perfect degrees for maximum brilliance, blended with perfect degrees of the Hearts & Arrows, results in the best diamond in the world today. The beauty that is the result of those experts who labour to bring out the best from rough diamonds.
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